Declining azalea shrubs
Q. My azaleas are declining and there is a white coating on the branches and the beginnings of moss on the stems. What should I do to save the plants?
A. Start your azaleas' rejuvenation program with a soil acidity test, Most problems probably could be solved if the plants were growing in the acid soils that they like best. Drop a sample by your local garden center or extension office to have it checked. The acidity should be adjusted to the 4.5 to 5.5 range following the test recommendations.
Next, keep the plantings moist. Azaleas like a constantly damp soil, which may mean watering once or twice a week in the dry times. Maintain a mulch to help stretch the time between waterings. Also, don't forget the feedings. Apply an azalea/camellia fertilizer once a month in March, June and September to encourage growth and blooms.
Keeping good azaleas takes a fair amount of care, which is why many gardeners appear to have given up on this plant.
Additional Information on Hot Water Smells
Rotten egg oder is caused by hydrogen sulfide (H2S) gas. The odor is repulsive, but the gas is not usually harmful at the low concentrations that occur in a household water system. This is not a problem of health, but aesthetics. It is unpleasant to take a shower, wash clothes, or cook with water that smells like decay.
CHEMICAL CAUSES:
Rotten-egg odors result from a chemical process that involves three primary components: Sulfur (S), electrons, and bacteria. Sulfur often appears in water as sulfate ions which are quite stable. However, sulfate can convert to sulfides and hydrogen sulfide gas by the gain of 8 electrons (negative charges). The gain of negative charges is called reduction reaction. The sulfate-reduction reaction requires energy and electrons are the energy source. Excess electrons may occur in water as the result of decay or the corrosion of metals. Sulfate may convert to the less stable sulfur form of sulfide in the presence of excess electrons. But a catalyst is needed to speed up the reaction if it is to take place at a rate sufficient to cause the odor. The non-pathogenic, sulfate-reducing bacteria (Desulfuuibrio desulfuricans) produces enzymes that have the power to accelerate the sulfate-reduction reaction. However, the bacteria lack the ability to reduce the sulfates to sulfides without the external energy source provided by the excess free electron. All three of the components must be present for the hydrogen sulfide(H2S) gas to be produced. Another influencing factor is the length of time that the water is in contact with the reaction. Even at a very low reaction rate, the H2S may build in concentration to objectionable levels given enough time. Water heater tanks can provide the ideal environment for the production of the H2S gas. Modern steel tanks are glass lined to prevent corrosion. To prevent steel in the tank exposed by small cracks from corroding, a long rod (anode) is made of magnesium is used. The magnesium corrodes more easily than steel. This corrosion of the anode frees many electrons that form a protective film over the cracks in the glass, however the number of the electrons released may exceed the amount required to protect the tank. The excess electrons provide the energy needed by the sulfate-reducing gas to produce H2S gas. If you can reduce any of the four factors, you can control the odor problem.
THE RIGHT CONDITIONS:
The sulfate-producing bacteria thrive in the temperature range of most hot water heaters. In addition, the water tank provides for an extended contact time.
AGGRAVATING THE PROBLEM:
Many household activities can aggravate the problem: INFREQUENT USE OF HOT WATER, SUCH AS WITH VACATION HOMES OR BEING AWAY FOR A WEEKEND, or the use of iron plumbing, which is more likely to corrode than copper or PVC. A water softener reduces CaCO3 levels, reducing protection from corrosion.
REMEDIES:
REPLACE THE MAGNESIUM ANODE:
Magnesium is commonly used for cathodic protection anodes because it provides much corrosion protection at the least cost. Consult a reputable dealer of water heaters for a replacement anode that provides protection without supporting the sulfate-reduction reaction that causes the H2S gas.
CHLORINATION:
Maintaining a chlorine residual of L mg/L throughout the distribution system inhibits bacterial activity. In a non-chlorinated system, homeowners may disinfect and flush their water heater tanks with a chlorine bleach solution. This may solve the problem for weeks at a time.
KILL THE BACTERIA WITH INCREASED HEAT:
Sulfate-reducing bacteria dies at about 140 degrees . Water heaters are factory set at 140 + or - 10 degrees, which is the medium setting on the temperature dial. Increasing the temperature to the high setting (160 degrees F) for several hours should kill the sulfate-reducing bacteria. Then flushing the tank to remove the dead cells should control the odor until the population of bacteria recovers. CAUTION: THE HOT WATER TANK MUST HAVE AN OPERABLE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE, OTHERWISE THIS METHOD OF TREATMENT MAY BE DANGEROUS. The temperature setting MUST be reduce following treatment to prevent scalding hot water and to avoid high energy costs.
PERIODIC FLUSHING OF LOW-FLOW WATER LINES:
Flushing low-flow lines and looping water mains to eliminate dead ends will reduce problems associated withe bacterial activity.
"Hot Water Smells Bad" Information
Turn on a cold water faucet to see if the cold water smells. If it does, the problem is more likely with your source water.
Let the hot water run for two or three minutes. If it smells a bit like rotten eggs, the anode rod in the water heater may need replacement. This is a job that's usually best left in the hands of a plumber. If your water heater is past its warranty and showing other signs of aging, consider having the entire water heater replaced. (The Home Problem Solver)
Water Heater Care Tips:
At least every three months (more frequently if poor water quality) drain some water from the W.H.
You can do this by following these simple steps:
- If electric water heater = shut-off the electricity
- If gas, turn down the gas valve to off
- Shut-off the cold water intake to the heater
- Open a Hot water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Open the bottom drain valve at the bottom of your water heater
- Drain enough water so that the water will run clear
- Shut the water faucet that you opened
- Open the cold water intake valve
- Run all the faucets in the house till no more air is sputtering out for at least 10 seconds
- Turn electricity/gas back on
|
One
of the most critical factors in how long a water heater will
last |
Compare the new water heater anode rod on the left (what we sell)
to a one year old anode-rod. If an anode rod looks any more
deformed than the picture on the right, we suggest that you replace
that anode rod with a new one.
The above, used anode rod
on the right is in a condition where it will probably need to be
replaced soon. Waiting a long time is not a good idea. The
possibility of the old water heater anode rod becoming broken off,
and then falling to the bottom of the water heater (and then
bouncing around whenever water travels inside the water heater) is
what will deteriorate the water heater tank lining very quickly.
This
will cause cracks in the glass
lining of the water heater radically shortening the life of the
water heater. Having a depleted anode rod and not replacing your
water heater anode rods in a timely fashion WILL shorten the life
span of your water heater.
Recognize that the condition of your water is also a major factor
and the quality of the water heater lining are two other factors in
the life span of your water heater.
Anode rods that come installed with water heaters generally will be
made of magnesium or aluminum that is wrapped around a steel core
wire.
Water heater anode rods are generally screwed into the top of the
tank.
Therefore, they are physically connected to the steel of the tank
creating an electrochemical reaction, similar to that of a battery.
The anode intentionally corrodes and the steel hopefully will
remain intact. That is the theory of the anode rod.
When there's no sacrificial metal left on the anode, the tank can
rust out.
Anode rods generally last about five years but it really depends
mostly on the quality of your water and how much water travels
through your water heater.
When salt is added to the water (such as when a water softener is
used), anode rods can corrode more quickly. Water softeners can
help reduce sediment, but anodes can corrode in as little as six
months
if the water is
over-softened. (From PlumbingStore.com)